Mt. Athos – climb to the summit

Picture story by Matei Buta

Getting on the Holy Mountain is not that easy. One needs special permission, usually an invite issued by one of the monasteries to be allowed on the ferry. Then, the only way to reach the holy land, is by sea. Although it is connected to the mainland, a huge wall divides Greece from Mt. Athos. The trip on the ferry is very picturesque. The people onboard are from all over the world, not only orthodox. However, there is one thousand-year old rule which still stands. Women – even many female domestic animals – have not been allowed on the mountain since a decree banning women was issued by Byzantine Emperor Constantine Monomachos in 1045. Under Greek law, breaching the ban can lead to a jail sentence.Sailing across the peninsula, the scenery prepares you for what is to come.

The beautiful and arid greek scenery, along with the old stone fortified buildings prepare one for the plunge in the middle ages.

Each year in August, the annual fete of Mt Athos takes place. Pilgrims from all over the world come to climb to the summit on this special occasion.

The route to the summit is long and often the pilgrims are elderly people, in need. So they often take a break to catch their breath. Most of the pilgrims start the day at sea-level and have to work their way up to 2033 meters, where the Metamorphosis Chapel is. On the way there are several hermitages where pilgrims can stop to catch their breath. The last one is before the final climb to the summit. It is here that monks prepare a meal for the pilgrims and await them with a fresh glass of water. The ones that make it here early, take this opportunity for a short nap before heading out on the final leg.

For the final leg of the climb, the pilgrims will follow the monks on a holy procession. A mule taxi service is available for the ones that cannot make  the final climb. Man and animal alike have to fight the harsh and rocky terrain that gets steeper the more you climb. Having regular stops for prayers, the pilgrims have a chance to catch up with the monks, who’s pace is unequaled.

Upon reaching the summit, everyone takes a well-earned break. Pilgrims finally have a chance to chat with the new friends they’ve made en route. The mules are unloaded and slowly everyone is reaching the top. Slowly, this is becoming very crowded and people have to measure each step, being careful not to stumble upon someone else’s backpack. The mules are all tied up on one rock and everyone is slowly catching their breath.

There are no accommodations on the summit. So everyone has to find a rock to set up camp. Unfortunately, the terrain is so rocky there is no place to set up a tent. So pilgrims have to make the best out of each flat surface. Fortunately, the skies are clear and there are no signs of rain. And since it has been a hot day, the rocks have stored some warmth. Pilgrims that spent too much time catching their breath, or the ones reaching the summit too late, have to make do with the most difficult sleeping terrain, since all the sweet spots are taken. The monks are all cramped in the small chapel, so that is no option either.

Camp is set on all available surfaces. Some daring pilgrims even set camp on the roof of the chapel, disregarding the long fall down. With camp set, there still is some time before sunset. Men take this time to admire the view, or maybe take a short nap. Once the sun will set, the ceremony will begin, so all must be sorted by then. The Monks prepare a small snack for the pilgrims with whatever the mules could bring up. There’s fresh water and two loafs of bread for everyone.

With the sun setting, everybody is closing down on the chapel. The service will begin shortly and will last all night long. During this time all is silent. The only noises come from the monks singing in the chapel and the mules grazing away at whatever flocks of grass they can find in the rocky terrain. During the night pilgrims slowly walk away from the chapel and to their camping sites. They all need a good night’s sleep, since tomorrow everyone will be climbing back down the mountain.

Next morning, everyone is up before sunrise. Most monks are still in the chapel. Pilgrims quickly have a bite and pack their camp. Everybody stays in line for the iconic picture next to the cross right on the summit, which was laid down in 1897. Monks, pilgrims, friends… they all take their turn for this picture, calm without shouting or pushing. Lastly, prayers are spoken and farewells are made. From now on, everybody is back on their way home.